Apo Island is the little dot off the boot.
But seeing the turtles makes this a really special trip.
The outrigger's mate
We approach a small beachfront on an outrigger aimed for the tiny island of Apo off the southern coast of Negros Oriental. The draw is a Marine Turtle Sanctuary. Four Chinese tourists an older couple in their 50s and their son and daughter-in-law share this 6 seater as we get buffered by the waves and sea between Malatapay, Negros and Apo. Many Chinese tourists await boats as we sit at the pier in Malatapay. We note their amazing choice of wardrobe for their turtle viewing experience.
Onesies for snorkeling
Like pop beads in the 50s
The Filippino captain a sun darkened,wiry,seaman focuses straight ahead to the point of population along the beach at Apo. The many orange life vested Chinese tourists are a gay splotch in the sand and surf ahead. The engine cut, the mate jumps ashore and muscles the boat into harbor, tying it on the rocks. A cordoned off area on the beach designates the turtle sanctuary and several local guide shops await the outpouring of tourists planning to view the native species that still hang out here among the throngs of Chinese New Year seeking tourists.
We skip the snorkeling guides and find a small shaded spot along the far end of the beach to launch our snorkeling activities outside the roped off "sanctuary." Rob goes in first while I guard the camera and day tripping possessions in our backpack on shore. Soon he is waving and telling me,"You have
to come in. There're turtles." He trades posts with me and I don the snorkel mask and head out into not exciting coral but deeper water than the sanctuary bound markers. I am enjoying the waving movement of the coral, the bright neon blue little fish, the blue starfish clinging to the sea floor, a school of angelfish, a blowfish and an eel squirming back into it's cave, and figure that is a pretty good display of marine life. No turtles but a nice little snorkeling experience.
So I slowly turn and head back toward the beach. All of a sudden in a movement to my left, a gentle flowing brown mass appears and I realize a green turtle is swimming alongside me. I am amazed at the buoyancy and effortlessness in which it moves and its total lack f concern for my large presence in its space. It outstretched its leathery neck and nips a piece of food from the coral below, totally at home in its environment and I feel like a privileged voyeaur. Then a smaller turtle perhaps a few years old comes floating by and I am delighted at seeing the pair. I breathe evenly through the mask floating as they do in the waves and realize a oneness with them. I can't help but think of the turtle totem the Native American Indians revere them as a go between Mother Earth above and the seas below.
The town is a small enclave totally at peace with this inflow of tourist economics. After a lunch of fresh caught tuna fish grilled , Rob walks around to take pictures of the town while I find some shade. It is totally laid back except for the hordes of tourists who coalesce within the cordoned off area.
Those who can not swim are drug around by their Filippino guide while clinging to a life ring . We await our outrigger who takes us back to the mainland before the seas get really choppy and we leave with impressions of coral swaying on the sea floor and turtles floating above.
native fish trap
A native son
Kids happy to see you.
Apo Village overlooking the coast.
A piece of shade.
Fate awaits.
Idyllic calm seas close to shore.
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