Borneo Bats, Deer Cave and Slip Sliding Away on Mountains of Bat Guano

Borneo Bats, Spelunking and Slip Sliding Away on Mountains of Bat Guano

Spelunking in Deer Cave- Mulu National Park-Sarawak

The whole idea of this family vacation was to meet Erik halfway through his one year world travels.  We thought it might be a great opportunity for a family vacation and to spend some time getting to know Kellyn, Erik's fiancé. I pulled out the Marriott stay points for a decadent abode in the jungle (as there were very few options other than homestays and we were 5 people. )  We picked up Kellyn in Kota Kinabalu the capital of Sabah, Malaysia and flew to Sarawak to Gunung Mulu National Park, probably Marriott's most remote location in the world. It is surrounded by rain forest and a handful of indigenous people.

Once there our  three millennials planned the National Park activities with  a very challenging caving spelunking day, a tree top walk above the rain forest and some walks on the floor of the rain forest.  We booked a guided tour of Deer Cave called The Garden of Eden walk through one of the largest caves in the world that went from 9:30am to 7:30 pm. Our guide was a wiry thin, fit Malay man who soon pointed out a viper in the trees above our heads and lead us through the rain forest trailed by a novice young,stout, female guide of Irish and Malay descent.

The walk starts through the Gunung Mulu Rainforest and you enjoy the flora and fauna along a boardwalk trail.  Believe me much better than trying to make your way through the forest floor.

 A great variety of bugs, ants, caterpillars and other insects inhabit the rainforest.  The bats feed on them when they come out at night for their rain forest dinner menu.

 Poisonous Viper luckily high up in a tree.  If we were walking on the ground we would never have spotted it.

The five of us headed into the rainforest we had strolled through the prior day on our way to Deer Cave.  The only entry into this cave is with a NP guide as the cave presents many  physical and mental challenges and houses about 5 million bats.

 Entrance to Deer Cave one of the largest bat caves in the world.  It is about 20 stories high.  Look at the black hole above Rob's head and you will see the entrance.

Rob, Jenny, Kellyn Johnson ( soon to be Wardell) and Erik Wardell

Once in the cave, with headlamps on and your sure footed awareness heightened, before you know it you are off the board walk and moving across and climbing slippery rocks rimmed with mountains of bat guano.  The cave is dark and the lights from our headlamps the only illumination.  We gingerly make our way trying not to put our hands down too often because of the certainty that they will rest in bat guano.  In between boulders strung with ropes pitoned to the rocks we  hold on and manuever our way across the boulders, up, down, around and through.

Rob dropped his camera twice.  The second time it fell in a stream and
didn't make it.  

Boardwalk soon runs out and you are crawling over rocks and terrain covered with bat guano from millions of sleeping bats!

Finally reach the other end of the cave and come out to the Garden of Eden Valley

 First you slip slide on bat guano covered rocks then you slip slide on the river rocks in the stream that runs along the bottom of the cave.  This is a STRENUOUS trip only for those very fit and capable.  The rangers don't emphasize that enough!!!

Luckily I have been working out daily, so this was more a psychological challenge than a physical one, although it was plenty physical in the heat and dank mugginess of the cave.  Finally after not falling down into the cavern depths by hanging on to the ropes, crawling and climbing, we came to an opening and the other end of the cave and saw the river that runs through the cave floor. Here we had to choose between swimming the river or crawling up and over more rocks. Kellyn and I choose the river which seemed clear and cool.  We waded into the suprisingly clear waters that came up to our neck.  The guide took my guano covered backpack up and over the rocks and met us and the rest of the party on the other side of the rocks.

It was so refreshing just rinsing off some of the bat guano and sweat as we swam through the river.  I had to do a mind set readjustment about the guano because of course things are what you make them.  The guide offered his hand to help me through a particularly slippery rocky area.  I was originally circumspect about offering him my guano covered hand but that did not last long. Soon I was no longer worried about where the shit landed and focused on  trying to stay on my feet and keep up with the flow of the 7 of us through the cave to the far opening, called the Garden of Eden Valley.  I guess after one has come through and crawled over the slippery, guano covered rocks, swum the cave rivers, walked along incredibly slippery rocky stream beds where 'small rocks, small rocks' is the keyword for safe foot placement, and survived not falling into the depths of the cave, not  getting stuck in the rock crevices, then anything can legitimately be called 'The Garden of Eden."  This forested waterfall area accessed after one emerges on the other side of the cave requires climbing up slip slidey muddy hillsides, holding onto tree roots for sure footedness and sliding through muddy underbrush.  When we finally reached the waterfall it was a much needed break.  I relaxed for a few breathes only to remember that we had to return the way we came to get back out of the cave and back to safety.

We all washed our hands in the clear waterfall pond and ate our NP provided chicken lunches glad to sun on the rock and watch Jenny swim in the pool and Erik take pictures of Kellyn who as always graciously modeled for him.  Rob and I quietly applauding our 'Bolder Boomer' capability of hauling our butts over guano covered rocks and through rivers to get there.  By this time Rob had fallen in the river twice and the 2nd time his camera got immersed enough that it did not make it out workable.  So we sacrificed his 10 year old Nikon to the cave and got over it.  Jen and Erik took enough photos for all of us. 

I thought I had psyched  myself up for the return journey without Xanax when  our young female guide headed in a new direction down into  a small hole just large enough for a body into the depths of the cave for our return.  Yikes, I was not ready for going down, down,  down into the rock crevices and not seeing the light of our exit.  I really had to 'get it together, keep it together' to not freak out on this part.  I was never so happy to see guano covered board walk in my life when we finally crawled through rock crevasses and  hit it, ready to leave  the cave depths behind.  By this time it was only 3 pm and we still had one more cave to go to before going to sit outside of Deer Cave and watch the 3 million Borneo bats emerge at sunset for their evening feed of forest insects.  I was not keen on doing a second cave having survived the first, but sucked it up and it was actually very interesting, stalagtite and stalagmite formations in the other cave.  This time it was all boardwalk and no spelunking so it was a breeze.  We were so glad to get back to the cave entrance to finally sit down and await the awakening and emergence of the bats who had so kindly slept through the day during our travels through their homeland.  We did our part though  and did not blare Jimmy Hendrix at them to awaken them from their slumber. 

Upon reflection bats are amazing and they do get a bad rap.  They did not bother us at all during our caving expedition.  They slept and outside of their guano droppings ignored us.  They keep to their own colonies and have very systematic behaviors for sleeping and eating.  One of the most amazing natural experiences I have ever seen is their wave like migration out of the cave in black speckled spirals with a whirring of their wings speeding them on their way like a ribbon of black into the rain forest to feed.  All 3 million bats emerge colony after colony in waves for about 30-45 minutes starting near sunset. It  is truly a terrific sight and a natural wonder.

We took videos of their iconic flight and the rain held off until they were gone and then we walked back about 50 minutes through the rainforest in the dark and steady rain to the chirps of insects, whoops of frogs and warble of birds also getting rained on in the night forest.  Between our headlamps and the periodically lighted path we made it back to Park headquarters in time to have dinner at the cafeteria before they closed at 8pm.  What a day.  I have to say I am so proud of all of us for doing this amazing adventure and especially me as it was definitely a mind over fear that allowed me to suck it up and go for it.  

So when Rob and Jen decided to do the canopy walk early the next morning I opted to roll over and enjoy the sumptuous sheets of the Mulu Marriott where we had so happily spent our Frequent Flyer points for 5 nights in this great National Park.  It would be followed by weeks of various backpacker guest houses and huts, lacking the sybaritic appeal that the Marriot afforded.  When they returned from the canopy walk, they assured me that I had made the right decision for the height sensitive, anxiety disorder person that I am.  They enjoyed it and I enjoyed not doing it especially after I talked with another 66 year old English woman who had done it and had admitted to being  fairly petrified most of the time.  

APO ISLAND, Philippines -Marine Turtles

Apo Island, Philippines -off the coast of Negros Oriental Feb 10, 2016

Apo Island is the little dot off the boot.

But seeing the turtles makes this a really special trip.

  

The outrigger's mate

We approach a small beachfront on an outrigger aimed for the tiny island of Apo off the southern coast of Negros Oriental.  The draw is a Marine Turtle Sanctuary.  Four Chinese tourists an older couple in their 50s and their son and daughter-in-law share this 6 seater as we get buffered by the waves and sea between Malatapay, Negros and Apo.  Many Chinese tourists await boats as we sit at the pier in Malatapay.  We note their amazing choice of wardrobe for their turtle viewing experience.

Onesies for snorkeling

Like pop beads in the 50s

A 45 minute trip with an outrigger engine makes one appreciate the manpower it took to ride these waves before gasoline powered outboard motors.

The Filippino captain a sun darkened,wiry,seaman focuses straight ahead to the point of population along the beach at Apo.  The many orange life vested Chinese tourists are a gay splotch in the sand and surf ahead.  The engine cut, the mate jumps ashore and muscles the boat into harbor, tying it on the rocks.  A cordoned off area on the beach designates the turtle sanctuary and several local guide shops await the outpouring of tourists planning to view the native species that still hang out here among the throngs of Chinese New Year seeking tourists.


We skip the snorkeling guides and find a small shaded spot along the far end of the beach to launch our snorkeling activities outside the roped off "sanctuary."  Rob goes in first while I guard the camera and day tripping possessions in our backpack on shore.  Soon he is waving and telling me,"You have
to come in. There're  turtles."  He trades posts with me and I don the snorkel mask and head out into not exciting coral but deeper water than the sanctuary bound markers.  I am enjoying the waving movement of the coral, the bright neon blue little fish, the blue starfish clinging to the sea floor, a school of angelfish, a blowfish and an eel squirming back into it's cave, and figure that is a pretty good display of marine life.  No turtles but a nice little snorkeling experience.

So I slowly turn and head back toward the beach. All of a sudden in a movement to my left, a gentle flowing brown mass appears and I realize a green turtle is swimming alongside me.  I am amazed at the buoyancy and effortlessness in which it moves and its total lack f concern for my large presence in its space. It outstretched its leathery neck and nips a piece of food from the coral below, totally at home in its environment and I feel like a privileged voyeaur.  Then a smaller turtle perhaps a few years old comes floating by and I am delighted at seeing the pair. I breathe evenly through the mask floating as they do in the waves and realize a oneness with them.  I can't help but think of the turtle totem the Native American Indians revere them as a go between Mother Earth above and the seas below.

The town is a small enclave totally at peace with this inflow of tourist economics. After a lunch of fresh caught tuna fish grilled , Rob walks around to take pictures of the town while I find some shade.   It is totally laid back except for the hordes of tourists who coalesce within the cordoned off area.
Those who can not swim are drug around by their Filippino guide while  clinging to a life ring . We await our outrigger who takes us back to the mainland before the seas get really choppy and we leave with impressions of coral swaying on the sea floor and turtles floating above.

native fish trap

A native son

Kids happy to see you.

Apo Village overlooking the coast.

A piece of shade.

Fate awaits.

Idyllic calm seas close to shore.

Sarawak, Borneo around Gunung Mulu National Park

SARAWAK, Borneo

THE PEOPLE
The gentle and kind nature of the reserved Malay people comes across as we traveled the Western side of Borneo in Sarawak at Gunung Mulu National Park and along the west coast beaches of Sabah. The Muslim call to prayer in their Masjids awakes one from slumber at 5am to turn over while the faithful men make their way to the mosque and face Mecca 5 times daily intoning prayers to Allah.  

It seems too foreign to Westerners this separation of male and female and the clear social division that exists between the sexes as required by the Muslim religion. Women do not talk with men outside the family.  I approached an older Muslim man wearing a prayer cap in the coastal town of Kota Belud, sitting under a tree in the square to ask directions.He studiously ignored me, acting as though he did not hear my "Excuse me sir."  

The older women seem to appraise us with an expressionless face, hiding their judgment and distancing themselves from us Western females. While the younger women are quicker to show a smile and  acceptance or curiosity, it takes a lot longer for the older ones to warm to our Western presence.  One gets the feeling that they think It is best to ignore us or at least keep their distance and opinions of our Western clothing and its' flaunting of skin to themselves.  I watch the men very surreptitiously check out Jenny's long legs and her blonde hair unfettered by a hajib.  They look at her like they do not look at their own women. There is a subtle judgment, male appraisal and often a hooded dismissal that suggests they are ambivalent as to how they should respond.  Yet they seem to still check her out  because she is Western, young blonde, tall and good looking.  They are much more circumspect with Kellyn because she is clearly with Erik. Unlike India there is not the leering from men but a certain distanced quiet appraisal.

I am told by a friendly massage therapist in Kota Kinabalu that Christians outnumber the Muslims in Sabah, a surprising fact until one gets out into the countryside. It seems that every few miles one sees yet another small church, St. Peter, St. Paul, etc. that unites a community. Clearly Magellan was followed by  the Spanish missionaries, first. 
 to claim land and souls, they made significant headway converting these locals to Christianity, a religious overlay that worked here in the jungle much as it did in the Southwest of the US among the Indian populations along the Rio Grande. 

Back to my masseuse, she shared with me that she has lived with her boyfriend for 7 years, an offshore oil and gas worker and that many young women come to the city KK to live lives that are not necessarily approved of by their more traditional families.  She also shared that the Muslims do not come for massage, just Christians, Buddhists and tourists in KK.  

Development in the Countryside

 Seaside and riverine habitat meets rain forest and jungle where once indigenous peoples lived off the land and nomadic tribes moved following food sources.  Now Sabah's jungles are highly developed and the food source for larger mammals, coconut palms,bananas and the most diverse habitat for jungle species in the world has been replaced by the homogeneity of palm oil plantations.  We flew over unending miles of rows and rows of palm trees which have supplanted much of the inland rainforest. Much of the jungle has been subdued in Sabah's inland territory.  Development and economic success here means subduing the rain forest, cutting it down and replacing it with the mono species that spells Malaysian ringits for the shrewd 'landowners' who have done the deals with development enterprises on once tribal and/or unclaimed jungle.  

Consequently much of the native habitat of the indigenous peoples and animals is gone.  The orangutans and probiscus monkeys which Borneo jungles were so famous for are now largely only found in very limited reserve areas that are thin ribbons of nature surrounded by miles of Palm oil plantations.  There are only a few opportunities to really see orangutans outside of the rehabilitation centers,  and because it is the fruiting season they do not need to venture close to the waterways where boats might easily bring tourists to put them on display.  This is the only way we were able to see about a dozen probiscus monkeys on a tour we joined with 2 busloads of Chinese tourists who had all come to see the nosy monkeys and the evening fireflies along the river bank.  We ended up opting not to see the orangutans at all because it would have take a flight across country and another boat trip to maybe see them in the wild around Sandakan, the area now famous for the Nov 2015  beheading of a Malaysian engineer taken hostage by nearby Philippinos.  WEehave seen orangutans in the San Diego zoo so we left it at that.   

Coming next.... the beaches of Borneo were terrific.

Sands wept secluded Borneo  beaches without the hordes of sun seekers. Quiet little beach getaways with backpacker vibes around the tip of Borneo, Kudat and off the shore of Kota Belud, western side of Sabah.