Sunday, January 16, 2011

Puno Peru to CopaCabana- Not Barry Manilow's Copacabana, but Bolivia's






























We stopped briefly in Puno to see the floating islands on Lake Titicaca and the local people who make their livelihood on these mud and cane constructed islands.






























We then took a bus from Puno on the Peru side of Lake Titicaca to the Bolivian southern side of
the lake. It went across the high altiplano of Peru which reminded me a lot like the high plains of Tibet only with slightly more vegetation and trees. The people farm potatoes and whatever else they can coax from the earth and until you get to Copacabana, after the rigors of the Bolivian border crossing all you see is agrarian livelihoods, farming, raising cows, alpacas and llamas and construction of adobe brick homes with all the natural local grasses for thatching the roofs. It is a simple life close to the earth and is changed largely by the vagaries of the elements and the weather.
I find it interesting that so much of the world is tied to this agrarian-based livelihood and finds that life is simple: work hard, focus on food and warmth, family and the village, religion and faith, superstition and heritage. What changes all of this simple daily rhythm is the passage of the outside world with tourists with cameras, on tourist buses, TV, cellphones and the modern conveniences of electricity and the internet. These people are all exposed to the modern world and certainly, all the younger generation aspires to have and do the many things they see on TV. It is hard to say how much longer these indigenous peoples will be able to maintain their simple earthbound livelihoods as the next generation is not aspiring to fill these roles but rather to go to the city and wear jeans and listen to contemporary American music and watch Jessica Simpson and American movies.

Having crossed the Bolivian border and each paid our US $135 entry fee, an amazing amount of money in this one of the poorest countries in South America, ( due to reciprocity agreements and a way of getting back when the US tightened its borders in 2005 to outsiders), we rolled into a sweet little beach harbor town of about 5,000 people that is the site of Copacabana, known largely for being the jumping-off point to Isla del Sol and Isla Del Luna the birthplace of the Incan civilization. Through Jenny's well-versed use of TripAdvisor.com we found perhaps the best place we have stayed in all of our travels in South America...The Cupola, a 16 room hotel situated on top of the hill overlooking the town and the beach harbor, done in Mediterranean style by a German owner. The had 4 beautiful gardens you could hang out in a hammock or sit and play chess, or watch the kids on a hand made swing set and playhouse. The food was superb so we found ourselves not needing to find other dining options. We had fresh trucha ( trout) and Jen overdosed her cheese fondness with Fondue made from real Gruyere cheese and copious cups of hot chocolate made from the cocoa.

It was a great place to spend 3 nites and happen upon the big annual Copacabana town event of the blessing of the autobuses, autos. We wandered down into town on the morning of the first full day we were there to find all the vans and cars assembled around the plaza festooned with garlands of flowers and each had a top hat, while their owners poured beer, or for the wealthier few, champagne on their autos to bless them for the coming year and to keep the occupants and driver safe. Not a small equation on these roads that wind up and down the mountainside one of which is notoriously called the Death Road as it washes out so much and leaves the possibility of catapulting down the sides of thousands of feet drop-offs.

The other major blessing going on was in front of their cathedral where all the folks from the surrounding area had come in to receive blessings from the priest. Rob said the brown wool smocked priest with his flat woolen skullcap looked like someone directly out of central casting and indeed he stood there from the beginning of the day until the end of the festivities giving his blessings to the long line of supplicants who had come for his blessing.

The church, like most of those we have been in, was cathedral-like in traditional style with gold leaf altars and retablos of saints and the suffering of deities. The splendor of the gold-encrusted altar backdrops in these otherwise darker churches only light by clerestory windows has held sway over the faith of the locals for many generations. Typically the Catholic churches are set on top of prior Inca religious centers ( called superimposition) and overpower the square in the town as the main draw of local activity and tourism.



So in the morning off to Isla del Sol and the birthplace of the Incas. We take a 2-hour boat ride which Jen has determined is "the slowest boat she has ever been on" to the northern end of the Isla del Sol. We are given exactly 2 hours to scramble up the rock path to the top of the island and then along the ridgeline to its' far end to see the Inca ruins and return back to the boat. The hike up again is a puffer but we take the lead over the horde on the boat most of whom are not acclimatized or not conditioned to do so. Consequently, we have unobstructed views of all the Lake Titicaca surrounding us blue and shimmering on all sides when we reach the top and the ruins. It is easy to see why the Inca towns were placed here with a wealth of resources then ( certainly not now as deforestation is rampant everywhere in Peru and Bolivia) and a truly defensible position. It is a healthy scramble up and a fast walk down to meet the boat schedule but after Macchu Picchu, we figure we can conquer anything this Andean highland has to throw at us.
The southern part of the island is largely a "spread the wealth" stop for the tour boat and after a short hike up the side of the village we take the option most other travelers have chosen and look out over the lake tableside with a beer in hand. ( Rob choose not to hike up so he stayed below.) It was a lot like sitting overlooking the caldera at Santorini in Greece with the beautiful blue water shimmering below but no cruise ships just small little Bolivian tourist boats. In all Copacabana was our most favorite place to stay and a great choice to head south. Onto La Paz.



Chicheron- The Color of a Peruvian Highlands Market
























































Rob and I hired a taxi in Cusco and drove out about an hour outside of town to Chicheron in the Peruvian Highlands to check out a local market. It was probably one of the most colorful days we have experienced here. The locals come in with their vegetables, spices, produce, meat and sell everything under tarps in the center of the market. Their counterparts who are catering to the tourists ring the outer square of the market selling: handmade blankets, hats, mittens, purses, belts, embroidered landscapes, Pachamama statues, bronze llamas and alpacas, flutes of all sizes and shapes, various small metal objects in the shape of their gods which act as knives or bottle openers, cocoa products leaves and teas. The whole market is abuzz with trading and negotiating, with the colorful indigenous costumes of the women in their multilayered skirts and tribal specific trimmed hats, the children running around and the men eating and drinking around the cooking fires. The business of life and gossip, trade and livelihood is being done.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Sacred Valley-Land of the Llamas





































The clouds lay heavy on the mountains surrounding Macchu Picchu. A light rain falls feeding the waterflow in the stone carved canals that course from the top of the village to the rivers below- the Vilcabamba and the Urubamba. She picks up an olla to get water from the cistern and climbs the rock steps from her stone house where her mother prepares the morning fire. The sounds of the early morning float and mix with the drip of water off the thatched rooftops;birds calling from the treetps and other families starting their morning routine.

Her llama sees her coming and walks up to nuzzle her hand looking for treats and is soon disinterested as none are forthcoming and rejoins the other llamas quietly grazing on the grassed terraces. She meets her friend at the well and they look out at the river valley below starting to peak through clearings in the clouds. She fills her olla with water and carries it back to her mother who has the fire ready to make mate de coca tea and a corn tortilla ground on the metate and cooked on a hot stone in the fire. The day begins.

Her father and older brothers leave to tend the crops in the stone terraced field that climb geometrically down the slopes of the mountainside. She straps the baby onto her back in a multicolored blanket made from llama wool and dyed with plants picked from the mountain. Her mother and she shells the corn off the cob as the big kernels of Inca corn fall into a carved wooden bowl for meals later in the day.

The whole village is preparing for the summer solstice celebration that will come in a few days based on the predictions of the Inca priests, who use the stone pillar at the top of the village to determine the date of its arrival. It is a time of much celebration of the bounty from the gods in crops and good fortune for the village. Days and days of prayers, dancing and rituals will be performed in honor of the solstice. Each year with each celebration she learns more about the gods that protect her and the village and provide for their well being.

Saturday, January 1, 2011

Happy 1.1.11 New Year! MMXI

Happy New Year New Decade and New predictions!

We were flying over the Pacific bound for Lima,Peru when the captain came on to announce the New Year! The plane erupted with everyone jumping up and hugging, kissing and shaking hands. Feliz Ano Nuevo! We are bound for Peru and Macchu Picchu, the Amazon jungle in Madre de Dios and Lake Titicaca (don't you love the names?). Great way to start off the year!
I just reviewed my New Year's predictions for 2010 and gotta say, with all due humility...."I was right on!" Check them out in my Dec 30 2009 blog.

So here are my 2011 New Year's predictions: Think about it....how could I be wrong with such a great track record?

1. Given the 2012 Mayan Calendar prediction of the end of the world, the last quarter of this year will be a chaos of people scrambling for emergency preparedness equipment, taking money out of the market and putting it under their pillow and in their underwear and generally over reacting to th predicted cataclysmic end of our days. My prediction is that the world will not come to an end anytime in 2012 and in fact it will be no more than a blimp on the landscape like the millenium change of Y2K.

2. The Chinese will continue to aspire to the acquisitive habits of the Americans and the growth of automobile and appliance consumption will fast forward with their burgeoning middle class. Roads that have been built outside the cities will actually start to see vacation traffic akin to the days of US 66 and the proverbial "road trip" will take on its' Chinese form.

3. The Israeli find of offshore natural gas will give them an increased sense of resource independence from Middle Eastern oil and their new gas fields will become another reason to separate them from the Middle Eastern Muslim populations.

4. Susan Boyle will become Octo Mom's day care provider and she will train and mold the next Van Trapp like singing sensation with the Octo Kids.

5. Jennifer Aniston will angst about whether or not to get lip injections to look more like Angelina or adopt a kid to look more like Angelina. She will opt for the lip injections.

6. Prince William and Kate Middleton will get married. But randy Prince Harry will be the first to have royal offspring without the benefit of wedlock.


7. The global population will continue to grow toward the democratization of everything. Democratization of commerce, ccommunication, power, resource consumption, religion and ideas. This will be the theme of my first book.

8. I will learn more about life through the lens of travel, taking in different cultures, zones, climates and experiences given the abundance with which I have been blessed.

9. Garlic and oil will be the universal food stuffs that unite us all.

10. I will make similar predictions for 2010 and hedge my bets on the Mayan calendar thing.
Happy 2011!